Under the veil of darkness, we found ourselves winding our way up into the Mornington Peninsula hinterlands…..my husband enduring my incessant radio channel ‘switching’ in search of good “date night” music and I, enduring his dodgem driving and need for constant reiteration that yes, we would be turning left, not right, at the end of the road.
“Go left at the end here. No, no! I said go left!”
“But you were looking towards the right….”
“We got married here, how did you get here on the day?”
“Your brother drove me”
“Well….it will be on our left around the corner and up the rise. There will be a sign I’m sure”
And….sure enough there was a sign, ‘Polperro Bistro 100m’. As we rounded the corner, we needn’t have worried about being able to find one of the newest and most talked-about restaurants to take shape on the Mornington Peninsula. Strings of glowing fairy lights paved the way down the driveway, leading to the warm glow of the bistro inviting hungry visitors inside. Nestled amongst the rolling landscape of Red Hill is the place where my husband and I made some pretty special memories together with 100 of our nearest and dearest loved ones in 2010. A 25-acre treasure, where vines and kitchen gardens entwine an intimate drinking/dining space and cosy quarters for one with a full belly to retreat to for the evening. Much has changed in the years since our marriage and the property has been nurtured and respected. Edible plants have been sown, outdoor furniture has reclaimed open spaces, new buildings have been constructed and old ones given quite an astounding makeover.
Upon entering a ‘destination’ dining room, one does not always know what to expect when walking through the doors. An initial survey of the space gave us the impression that we were in for a night of theatre and we were not disappointed. Oversized wingback chairs in the casual lounge area were juxtaposed with shelves displaying smaller curios, some with plants spilling from them towards the floor. High, vaulted ceilings and expanses of windows along one side of the space contrast with smaller artworks hung low and little eating ‘nooks’ carved into each corner of the room, making for an embracing and intimate environment. Larger groups can easily fill the space with more than just laughter and stories, whilst duos can dine in their own little space of indulgent degustation. The cellar door is a perhaps where the theatre begins…..a dark room, warmly lit, with bottles from the floor to the ceiling on two sides. A central table allows the winemaker and guest to collaborate in giving the wine a space to ‘tell its story’ and and take centre stage. To get to the cellar door from the dining room, one has to pass the kitchen doors and it is behind these that all kinds of edible fun and ‘trickery’ are conjured up.
We started with celery seed bread served with a good old ‘slab’ of butter adorned with a tiny rosemary flower, so pretty that we couldn’t bring ourselves to eat that last little piece! Our ‘small plates’ were smoked fish croquettes and cauliflower dumplings with roasted dates & walnut relish. In both dishes, golden crispy outers gave way to soft, oozy, moreish fillings. The cauliflower dumplings were playfully plated alongside pickled purple pieces (try saying that quickly!) of its colourful relative and nestled between little mounds of walnut relish atop dates splayed open.
Cauliflower dumplings, roasted dates & walnut relish
Our ‘big plates’ were both strong contenders to take out the prize…..we put duck cassoulet up against slow cooked ox cheek, one heavyweight against another. My cassoulet arrived beneath a glorious golden shower of brioche crumbs…..a game of ‘hide and seek’ to retrieve succulent pieces of duck leg falling from the bone. The ox cheek sat proudly atop a creamy parsnip puree and surrounded by a rich, perfectly sticky sherry glaze. One only needed to just touch the meat and it fell apart shamelessly. A side of black bean snow peas with cashews added just the right amount of green.
Polperro duck cassoulet, mushrom brioche & fine herb salad
Desserts evoked childhood memories of stuffing cream-filled delicacies into mouths and wiping sugary remants from sticky lips. We ordered milk chocolate Pedro Ximinez eclairs and cinnamon donuts with orange marmalade & vanilla cream. Both were generous serves, however we did manage to lick our plates clean! The eclairs surprised and delighted as they arrived ‘inside/out’…..the milk chocolate filling the choux pastry with lashings of white chocolate ganache on top. The subtle hint of sherry reminding us that this dessert was for the ‘big kids’ with a sweet tooth. On the other plate, surrounding a pot of vanilla cream sat a circle of cinnamon dusted donuts playing ‘sentinel’ to the velvety dipping sauce waiting to be dripped across fingers, chins and the tabletop – sticky drizzles of marmalade trying to hold it all together.
Cinnamon donuts , seville orange marmalade & vanilla cream
Milk chocolate & Pedro Ximinez eclairs
Even our parting coffee arrived with its own element of drama – generous ‘hunks’ of white chocolate Aero, to be eaten quickly before they melt over fingers and (gasp!) slip into hot coffee. And wouldn’t that just be a terrible thing?!
Needless to say, we had such a fun and surprising evening. We have had the good fortune to enjoy the inspired creations of Andrew Doughton before, but I must say….there is a playful and intriguing side to the plates leaving his kitchen at Polperro Bistro. Having an ever-changing edible garden landscape is a treat for the kitchen and I look forward to the seasonal inspiration that will find its way onto their plates come Spring!
Mumma Duck Says..... 